Category: Environmental

  • Sustainable fish

    Tonight we had baked wrapped tilapia, quinoa, and sweet potatoes.  It was awesome. As I ate, I kept thinking about how I wish the public had more information on which fish are the safest and most sustainable to eat.

    As many of you know, I am a bit of a freak when it comes to toxins. Toxins are highly present in a lot of fish, because fish tend to have longer food chains. Long food chains mean that there are a lot of extra opportunities for the toxins to accumulate.  When a big fish eats a smaller fish, it gets the lifetime accumulated toxin load from that fish and every fish (or other item) that the smaller fish ate.

    Basically, that means that if you eat fish (or anything that had a mother), you want to eat lower on the food chain. Toxins are also lipophilic (attracted to fat), so fatty fish store more. This is why shrimp are less toxic than seals  😉 It is also why the native cultures who eat a lot of blubbery and fatty seafood that is also high on the food chain end up with the highest toxin body burdens in the world.

    (As a side note, here is a nasty story about trash recently found in a whale’s gut. It was a fairly low volume of trash compared to food, but still gross. It contained sweatpants, a golf ball, over 20 plastic bags, surgical gloves, and more goodies….)

    Anyways, so tilapia is one of the few kinds of fish that is considered to be “kid safe“.  That means that it is both low in toxins and sustainable. Tilapia eat mostly algae and aquatic plants, so they don’t have many opportunities to absorb toxins. The “kid safe” designation is really only true for tilapia from the US or other countries in the Americas. It is NOT true for Chinese tilapia (which is what most of the frozen stuff is.) Chinese fish farms have pollution and other environmental problems.

    We have obviously gone back and forth on whether or not we’ve eaten fish. If you aren’t abstaining for moral or philosophical reasons, then fish can be a great way to get essential fatty acids. It is especially important for women who are pregnant, may become pregnant, or breastfeeding to be aware of what they’re eating, because our children are the highest on the food chain as they are nourished from our body. See this article on mothering.com, SafeMilk.org, or the amazing book, Having Faith for more info on toxins in pregnancy and breastfeeding. 🙂 Happy eating!

  • Consumerism and the green movement

    I just read this article by Michael Pollan. He makes some really good points.

    It sounds like he’s on board with the Food, Not Lawns movement

    We’ve had in this country what I call a wilderness ethic that’s been very good at telling us what to preserve. You know, eight percent of the American landmass we’ve kind of locked up and thrown away the key. That’s a wonderful achievement and has given us things like the wilderness park.

    This is one of our great contributions to world culture, this idea of wilderness. On the other hand, it’s had nothing to say of any value for the ninety-two percent of the landscape that we cannot help but change because this is where we live. This is where we grow our food, this is where we work. Essentially the tendency of the wilderness ethic is to write that all off. Land is either virgin or raped. It’s an all or nothing ethic. It’s either in the realm of pristine, preserved wilderness, or it’s development– parking lot, lawn.

    This is a topic that I’ve been thinking about, especially after reading Urban Homestead. They talk a lot about the wastefulness of having a lawn, and I’ve been slowly trying to de-grass my yard. We are expanding our mulched beds, and putting in vegetables, fruits, and herbs that look beautiful, but also don’t waste water. It is ridiculous to pollute our water supply with all of the chemicals that we put in to our lawn, when it gives us nothing in return except for a manicured slab of grass. I am fortunate to live in an area where I am not required to have grass, but my husband is afraid that we will be the weirdos on the block if we completely eliminate it. He helped me to yank out some of our useless water hogs this weekend though, so I think he’s coming on board. For now, my goal is to reduce the amount of water that we waste and to make sure that I do the best that I can to avoid further polluting the water that does go to my lawn.

    Back to the article… Michael Pollan also challenges readers to

    …find one thing in your life that doesn’t involve spending money that you could do, one change that would make a contribution both to the fact of global warming and your sense of helplessness about global warming.

    I think of this when I’m at the grocery store and I see the “green” grocery bags for sale. I know so many people who have tons of canvas or mesh bags at their house, but they feel the need to buy the bags to be more green. Its silly. Our consumerism is tainting our attempts to undo the problem… a problem that it has caused in the first place!

    I think this is such a great challenge. Its one that I’ve struggled with… I’ve had to push myself to think in a new way. There are so many things that we can do that will help immensely and don’t require for us to spend a single cent. I use a clothes line outside, but I wanted to dry some clothes inside. I immediately wanted to run (or walk) to the store and buy a fancy, retractable clothesline. I thought about it for a second, and I realized that I had places in my house where I could hang or drape the sheets, and I didn’t need to buy anything. Why did I feel the need to go get the proper gadget to hang clothes?! Billions of people have hung clothes without indoor retractable clotheslines!

    I did the same thing with my worm bin. I was researching online to find some kind of super worm chalet. It took me several days to convince myself that all that I needed was the rubbermaid that held my homebirth supplies, with a few holes drilled in the side. It took me only a few minutes, and it reused an item that I wasn’t using. When I went to the Boulder county worm composting workshop, I smiled when I saw that they were using the same thing for their official worm bin. You don’t need fancy stuff to make it work.

    I’m not saying that there aren’t times when the special equipment is worth it. For example, I use my grain mill daily, and I absolutely adore it. I traded in my hand powered model for the electric one, because it grinds a much finer flour so I don’t need to supplement with white flour. I still try to make good choices, by buying Colorado grown organic wheat berries in bulk, and by batch processing the wheat. I’m still happy to use the electric version though 😉

    If you’ve recently started doing anything to be more green that doesn’t include buying something new, then I’d love to hear about it. I’m always excited to try new things! I am going to try to make a solar oven out of stuff that I have in my garage. We’ll see how that goes. Hopefully I’ll soon be making my zucchini bread in the back yard 😉

  • Mourning Wild Oats

    I went out and did my grocery shopping today. I was bummed as I went around Wild Oats and realized that soon it would be swallowed up by Whole Foods. I realize that Boulder is home to Wild Oats, and that is probably why I like it so much. They do a wonderful job of buying local (and marking it so you can tell what you are buying!) while still keeping prices reasonable. Their sales are so much better than WF and their bulk section rocks. I have heard that this is not the case on the east coast, but here in Colorado, I think Wild Oats is way better.

    To be fair, Vitamin Cottage beats them both up and down the block when it comes to prices (and they only stock organic!), but VC is a lot smaller and doesn’t offer the deli and butchering services that Wild Oats and Whole Foods offer, so it is harder for them to be competitive if you are an omnivore.

    In The Omnivore’s Dilemma, Michael Pollan talks about how Whole Foods uses a big distribution chain for their produce which means that only a very small percentage is still from local farms. They fly produce around just like Safeway, and they are more than willing to sacrifice the local ideals in order to better industrialize their chain. That’s fine if they want to do it, but I’d rather have Wild Oats as a competitive option.

    Then again, in some ways Whole Foods has it right. Their organic milk doesn’t come from Aurora, unlike Wild Oats. They also do a better job of luring in yuppies, which I suppose is a good thing. Whole Foods offers more “regular” products like Quaker Oats. I don’t know…

    See, this is why I like being able to get the good things frome each store. Now that option is being taken from me :P  I realize this is all a part of capitalism, but it bums me out.  I like having choices.  I’m pouting.

  • New books and my chance to hear Michael Pollan speak

    I have all of these entries in the works, but I’ve been bogged down and haven’t had them time to actually write them out.

    Last night I had the opportunity to go hear Michael Pollan (author of The Omnivore’s Delimma) speak. It was really great, and it was perfect timing since I’ve been blogging about him for the past month or so. I was sitting at my computer, minding my own business, when a new article popped up in Vienna saying that Mr. Pollan would be speaking at Colorado College. I called up my friend, begged her to join me, and made plans to go to Colorado Springs. It was such a nice night out! I’m such a nerd 😛

    This week I have a new hunk of books that I’m working on.

    I am about 2/3 of the way through with this one now. It is giving me all sorts of great quotes like

    …the dictionary also invites a playful reading. It challenges anyone to sit down with it in an idle moment.

    Dude. Their dictionary is apparently not like my dictionary.

    My upcoming reads this week:

    I started this one last week, but I put it on the back burner to finish How to Read a Book


    This one was recommended on the Vegan Freak podcast. I’m really looking forward to it.

    This one was recommended by Sara. I’m hoping to write about it once I’m digging in 🙂

    Well, it looks like its going to be a pretty green week of reading 😉 I am guessing that means I’ll be reading on an entirely different subject in the next week or two. I can’t stay focused for too long.

  • Organic dairy ratings (and a quick update on me)

    We have family in from out of town right now, so I haven’t been updating, but I didn’t want you to think I had fallen off of the face of the earth! I finished The Omnivore’s Dilemma last week and I am so glad that I read it. If you haven’t gotten it yet, I really encourage you to do so! I went to the library today to pick up some books that were on hold for me, including Appetite for Change: How The Counterculture Took on the Food Industry and God and Country: How Evangelicals Have Become America’s New Mainstream. I plan on blogging about one or both of them in the next week 🙂 I’m just not sure which one will be a better fit for my blog yet 😉
    I also wanted to share a link that I found this week for dairy industry rankings. This is a study of all the big organic dairy producers, and I think it is something that everyone who buys milk should read. Check it out here:

    http://cornucopia.org/dairysurvey/index.html

    I was inspired to find the above page after my dh brought home some Safeway Organic “O” Milk. I was less than impressed. I couldn’t even tell you the last time I purchased milk, and I told him that he was encouraging factory farming. He pulled it out of the fridge and showed me the drawing of the cows in the pasture on the front of the carton, which made me seriously roll my eyes. I then decided to prove myself right (very different from proving him wrong, lol.)

    Sure enough, I was totally right 😛 He then agreed and sent on this article about Aurora Dairy, which supplies not only Safeway’s “O” brand but also Wild Oats, Wal-Mart, Target, Costco, and a few other of the big names. Please be conscientious about what you buy. It is not fair to choose to be ignorant and thus support factory farms that abuse animals. If you feel you don’t have the time to research it, let me know, and I’ll even research it for you! I want there to be no excuses! I understand that in some areas there are no better options. In that case, if you must drink milk, then I agree that the organic factory farm is better than the non-organic one. I just want to get the word out there that not all farms are created equal though. Just because there is a picture of happy cows on the cover does not mean there are happy cows making your milk.
    I hope everyone is having a great weekend 🙂 Thanks for the PMs, emails, and comments over the past week. You guys are the best!

  • The animals on the “beyond organic” farm

    I split this into two entries. I hope that it won’t discourage people from reading the other one 🙂

    In Chapter Eleven, Pollan discusses the way that the animals work together at Polyface farm. He starts by talking about the chickens, who are moved in a way that is similar to the cows. There is portable fencing that is used to move them so that they evenly fertilize and clean the land.

    Left to their own devices, a confined flock of chickens will eventually destroy any patch of land, by pecking the grass down to its roots and poisoning the soil with their extremely “hot,” or nitrogenous, manure. This why the typical free-range chicken yard quickly winds up bereft of plant life and hard as a brick. Moving the birds daily keeps both the land and the birds healthy; the broilers escape their pathogens and the varied diet of greens supplies most of their vitamins and minerals… Meanwhile, their manure fertilizes the grass, supplying all the nitrogen it needs. The chief reason Polyface Farm is completely self-sufficient in nitrogen is that a chicken, defecating copiously, pays a visit to virtually every square foot of it at several points during the season.

    Doesn’t that make so much more sense? Just compare that to the “free-range” organic house that was discussed a few chapters ago. Which chicken do you think has a better life?

    “In nature you’ll always find birds following herbivores,” Joel explained… “The egret perched on the rhino’s nose, the pheasants and turkeys trailing after the bison–that’s a symbiotic relationship we’re trying to imitate.” In each case the birds dine on the insects that would otherwise bother the herbivore; they also pick insect larvae and parasites out of the animal’s droppings, breaking the cycle of infestation and disease. “To mimic this symbiosis on a domestic scale, we follow the cattle in their rotation… I call these gals our sanitation crew.”

    Just like the life cycle for grass that I just spoke about in my last entry, there is something similar for the chickens.

    It seems that chicken eschew fresh manure, so he waits three or four days before bringing them in–but not a day longer. That’s because the fly larvae in the manure are on a four-day cycle, he explained. “Three days is ideal. That gives the grubs a chance to fatten up nicely, the way the hens like them, but not quite long enough to hatch into flies.” The result is prodigious amounts of protein for the hens, the insect supplying as much as a third of their total diet–and making their eggs unusually rich and tasty. By means of this simple little management trick, Joel is able to use his cattle’s waste to “grow” large quantities of high-protein chicken feed for free; he says this trims his cost of producing eggs by twenty-five cents a dozen… The cows further oblige the chickens by shearing the grass; chickens can’t navigate in grass more than about six inches tall.

    I love this. This is the kind of farm I tell myself I am supporting when I buy organic. The truth is, as I said before, that it is not necessarily what is meant by “organic”. Sure, some organic farms are like this, but the biggest producer of organic eggs is owned by the same company that made “Rosie” the chicken in my entry yesterday.

    Joel also uses ingenious ways to make fertilizer and other inputs for the farm, rather than buying them or using fossil fuels. Pollan goes on to discuss how Joel adds layers of woodchips and corn to the manure that the cows are on in their barn. This slowly rises up and then keeps them warm as it decomposes during the winter. When the cows head out to pasture in the spring, Joel brings in the pigs who use their amazing sense of smell to get the fermented corn out. This is a delicious treat to them, and as they dig through for the corn, they mix it up and make an amazing fertilizer.

    “This is the sort of farm machinery I like: never needs its oil changed, appreciates over time, and when you’re done with it you eat it.”

    You can’t argue with that (assuming you aren’t Jewish or vegetarian… or both, in my case, lol).

    I couldn’t look at their spiraled tails, which cruised about the earthy mass like conning towers on submarines, without thinking about the fate of pigtails in industrial hog production. Farmers “dock,” or snip off, the tails at birth, a practice that makes a certain twisted sense if you follow the logic of industrial efficiency on a hog farm. Piglets in these CAFOs are weaned from their mothers ten days after birth (compared with thirteen weeks in nature) because they gain weight faster on their drug-fortified feed than on sow’s milk. But this premature weaning leaves the pigs with a lifelong craving to suck and chew, a need they gratify in confinement by biting the tail of the animal in front of them. A normal pig would fight off his molester, but a demoralized pig has stopped caring. “Learned helplessness” is the psychological term and it’s not uncommon in CAFOs, where tens of thousands of hogs spend their entire lives ignorant of earth or straw or sunshine, crowded together beneath a metal roof standing on metal slats suspended over a septic tank. It’s not surprising that an animal as intelligent as a pig would get depressed under these circumstances, and a depressed pig will allow his tail to be chewed on to the point of infection. Since treating sick pigs is not economically efficient, these underperforming production units are typically clubbed to death on the spot.

    Tail docking is the USDA’s recommended solution to the porcine “vice” of tail chewing. Using a pair of pliers and no anesthetic, most–but not quite all–of the tail is snipped off. Why leave the little stump? Because the whole point of the exercise is not to remove the object of tail biting so much as to render it even more sensitive. Now a bite to the tail is so painful that even the most demoralized pig will struggle to resist it. Horrible as it is to contemplate, it’s not hard to see how the road to such a hog hell is smoothly paved with the logic of industrial efficiency.

    Doesn’t that make you sick? Even if you eat pork (which I really don’t think is a good idea), that should make you think twice about random bacon or pork chops. That is just sick.

    To close up the chapter:

    At Polyface no one ever told me not to touch the animals, or asked me to put on a biohazard suit before going into the brooder house. The reason I had to wear one at Petaluma Poultry is because that system–a monoculture of chickens raised in close confinement–is inherently precarious, and the organic rules’ prohibition on antibiotics puts it at a serious disadvantage. Maintaining a single-species animal farm on an industrial scale isn’t easy without pharmaceuticals and pesticides. Indeed, that’s why the chemicals were invented in the first place, to keep shaky monocultures from collapsing. Sometimes the large-scale organic farmer looks like someone trying to practice industrial agriculture with one hand tied behind his back.

    By the same token, a reliance on agrochemicals destroys the information feedback loop on which an attentive farmer depends to improve his farming. “Meds just mask genetic weaknesses,” Joel explained one afternoon when we were moving the cattle. “My goal is always to improve the herd, adapt it to the local conditions by careful culling. To do this I need to know: Who has a propensity for pinkeye? For worms? You simply have no clue if you’re giving meds all the time.”

    On that note, I’ll say goodbye until my next entry 🙂 Thanks to everyone who has been reading and commenting! Its been great to hear from some new voices!

  • Beyond organic

    I wanted to get this entry up pretty quickly, because I don’t want to look like I am poo-pooing organic 🙂 These next few chapters have given me a ton of new books to read.

    As a total aside: today my youngest (my daughter) turns 3. I am feeling depressed and old. So ancient am I… now 26 years old, lol. Still, I can’t believe she’s already 3! Time is going by so fast.

    Back to the book:

    To contrast “Big Organic”, Pollan goes and visits Joel Salatin, a man who calls himself a “grass farmer.”  His farm is called Polyface, and on it he has an amazing ecosystem where almost no outside inputs are required.  He and his father took a piece of land that was completely ruined by traditional farming, and now he has turned it into an amazingly efficient and beautiful piece of land.

    Grass farmers grow animals–for meat, eggs, milk, and wool– but regard them as part of a food chain in which grass in the keystone species, the nexus between the solar energy that powers every food chain and the animals we eat…  One of the principles of modern grass farming is that to the greatest extent possible farmers should rely on the contemporary energy of the sun, as captured every day by photosynthesis, instead of the fossilized sun energy contained in petroleum.

    Its so simple, but such a revolutionary idea.  I am currently trying to figure out if there are any farmers like this in Colorado.  If there are, I’d love to do some kind of work share or something.  Wouldn’t that be sweet?

    Pollan then goes into a fair amount of detail about grass and the “management-intensive grazing” that grass farmers use.  Basically they use fences and portable structures to move the animals in a way that best imitates nature.  It is a very precise science.  For example, after a cow eats grass, the grass goes through a time of very fast growth.  During this time, it is drawing on all of its energy reserves.  If it is eaten at this time, it will get weak and eventually die.  Many traditional ranchers allow cows to stay in the same area, which means that the more delicious grasses (who knew?) and ground covers like clover will die.  If you wait too long between allowing the cows to eat the grass, then it becomes too woody and less palatable.

    One reason that this kind of farming is hard to convince people to try is because it takes a lot of knowledge.  The farmer must know which animal has been in each area, how long it has been, the time the paddock needs to recover, and all of this depends on rainfall amounts, the available sunlight, temperatures, time of year, and a million other variables.  It can’t be industrialized because it is a living unit.

    The productivity of a pasture is measured by “cow days”: a unit that measures how much a cow can eat in a day.

    As destructive as overgrazing can be to a pasture, undergrazing can be almost as damaging, since it leads to woody, senescent grasses and a loss of productivity.  But getting it right–grazing the optimal number of cattle at the optimal moment to exploit the blaze of growth–yields tremendous amounts of grass, all while improving the quality of the land.  Joel calls this optimal rhythm “pulsing the pastures” and says that at Polyface it has boosted the number of cow days to as much as four hundred per acre; the county average is seventy.  “In effect we’ve bought a whole new farm for the price of some portable fencing and a lot of management.”

    Isn’t that tremendous?  The land is so much more efficient, and yet big business CAN’T do it.  Its not a big business kind of system.

    After this discussion of grass, Pollan goes out to help Joel “move the cows” to their new piece of land.  The idea behind moving the cows is that this is exactly what happens in nature.  A predator would come after the herd, and the herd would then flee to new land.  When they got there, they would eat all that they could, and then they’d soon be chased to a new area.

    These intense but brief stays completely change the animal’s interaction with the grass and the soil.  They eat down just about everything in the paddock, and then they move on, giving the grasses a chance to recover.  Native grasses evolve to thrive under precisely such grazing patterns; indeed, they depend on them for their reproductive success.  Not only do ruminants spread and fertilize seed with their manure, but their hoof prints create shady little pockets of exposed soil where water collects–ideal conditions for germinating a grass seed.  And in brittle lands during the driest summer months, when microbial life in the soil all but stops, the rumen of the animals takes over the soil’s nutrient-cycling role, breaking down dry plant matter into basic nutrients and organic matter, which the animals then spread in their urine and manure.

    Hmm, I guess God knew what he was doing  😉

    The moment arrived.  Looking more like a maitre d’ than a rancher, Joel opened the gate between the two paddocks, removed his straw hat, and swept it grandly in the direction of the fresh salad bar, and called his cows to dinner.  After a moment of bovine hesitation, the cows began to move, first singly, then two by two, and then all eighty of them sauntered into the new pasture, brushing past us as they looked about intently for their favorite grasses.  The animals fanned out in the new paddock and lowered their great heads, and the evening air filled with the muffled sounds of smacking lips, tearing grass, and the low snuffing of contented cows.

    The last time I had stood watching a herd of cattle eat their supper I was standing up to my ankles in cow manure in Poky Feeders pen number 43 in Garden City, Kansas.  The difference between these two bovine dining scenes could not have been starker.  The single most obvious difference was that these cows were harvesting their own feed instead of waiting for a dump truck to deliver a total mixed ration of corn that had been grown hundreds of miles away and then blended by animal nutritionists with urea, antibiotics, minerals, and the fat of other cattle in a feedlot laboratory.  Here we’d brought the cattle to the food rather than the other way around, and at the end of their meal there’d be nothing left for us to clean up, since the cattle would spread their waste exactly where it would do the most good.

    Isn’t that so cool?  What a contrast.  Which cows would you rather eat?  (Assuming you’re the cow-eating type.)  😉

    Those blades of grass have spent this long June day turning sunlight into sugars.  (The reason Joel moves his cattle at the end of the day is because that’s when sugar levels in the grass hit their peak; overnight the plant will gradually use up these reserves.)  To feed the photosynthetic process the grass’s roots have drawn water and minerals up from deep in the soil (some grasses can sink their roots as much as six feet down), minerals that soon will become part of this cow.  Chances are Budger has also chosen exactly which grasses to eat first, depending on whatever minerals her body craves that day; some species supply her more magnesium, others more potassium.  (If she’s feeling ill she might go for the plantain, a forb whose leaves contain antibiotic compounds; grazing cattle instinctively use the diversity of the salad bar to medicate themselves.)  By contrast 534, who never got to pick and choose his dinner, let alone his medications, depends on animal nutritionists to design his total ration–which of course is only as total as the current state of knowledge in animal science permits.

    Its so amazing.  He goes into a TON more details, but I’m going to jump forward to a few more points so that this doesn’t become another infinitely long post.

    …Grassing over the portion fo the world’s cropland now being used to grow grain to feed ruminants would offset fossil fuel emissions appreciably.  For example, if the sixteen million acres now being used to grow corn to feed cows in the United States became well-managed pasture, that would remove fourteen billion pounds of carbon from the atmosphere each year, the equivalent of taking four million cqars off the road.  We seldom focus on farming’s role in global warming, but as much as a third of all the greenhouse gases that human activity has added to the atmosphere can be attributed to the saw and the plow.

    I want to go change the world now…. if only I could convince even my family that the price that they pay for cheap beef and chicken is actually much higher than they realize.  That 99 cent a pound roaster doesn’t take into account the cost of the fossil fuels that are being used, the pollution being put into our water, air, and soils, the inferior product that is going into our bodies which raises the cost of health care, of the cost of the sheer misery of the animals.  We are a society that values a low “bottom line”, but we are selling ourselves short.
    I’m going to make a new entry for the next chapter  🙂

  • Is “Organic” any better?

    As I continue through The Omnivore’s Dilemma, there is just so much that I want to write about! I am working through the chapter on “Big Organic” right now, and I quickly realized that I’d have to break this into several blog entries. There’s just too much to say.

    So, let me start with the first half of the chapter. It has given me a LOT of new books to add to my TBR list 😉

    The last chapter, which I didn’t write about, covers a really interesting farm philosophy where the grass is nourished since it is what feeds all of the rest of the crops. It is really good stuff. The farmer that he follows, Joel Salatin has a “revolutionary” farm that is actually sustainable. The crops feed the animals, the animals feed the crops with their waste, and it works as a system, not just in parts.

    Pollan starts chapter nine with a visit to Whole Foods, where he browses the aisles and imagines life on an organic farm: roaming cows, family farms, simpler times…. Not really. He explains how they fared against journalistic scrutiny

    I learned, for example, that some (certainly not all) organic milk comes from factory farms, where thousands of Holsteins that never encounter a blade of grass spend their days confined to a fenced “dry lot,” eating (certified organic) grain and tethered to milking machines three times a day. The reason much of this milk is ultrapasteurized (a high-heat process that damages its nutritional quality) is so that big companies like Horizon and Aurora can sell it over long distances. I discovered organic beef being raised in “organic feedlots” and organic high-fructose corn syrup–more words I never expected to see combined…

    I visited Rosie the organic chicken at her farm in Petaluma, which turns out to be more animal factory than farm. She lives in a shed with
    twenty thousand other Rosies, who, aside from their certified organic feed, live lives little different from that of any other industrial chicken. Ah, but what about the “free-range” lifestyle promised on the label? True, there’s a little door in the shed leading out to a narrow grassy yard. But the free-range story seems a bit of a stretch when you discover that the door remains firmly shut until the birds are at least five or six weeks old–for fear they’ll catch something outside–and the chickens are slaughtered only two weeks later.

    And yet people think that just because they are at Whole Foods, they are eating from a beautiful, sustainable farm. That’s just not the case. Whole Foods will try to convince you otherwise.

    Lining the walls above the sumptuously stocked produce section in my Whole Foods are full-color photographs of local organic farmers accompanied by text blocks setting forth their farming philosophies. A handful of these farm–Capay is one example–still sell their produce to Whole Foods, but most are long gone from the produce bins, if not yet the walls. That’s because Whole Foods in recent years has adopted the grocery industry’s standard regional distribution system, which makes supporting small farms impractical. Tremendous warehouses buy produce for dozens of stores at a time, which forces them to deal exclusively with tremendous farms. So while the posters still depict family farmers and their philosophies, the produce on sale below them comes primarily from the two big corporate organic growers in California, Earthbound Farm and Grimmway Farms, which together dominate the market for organic fresh produce in America. (Earthbound alone grows 80 percent of the organic lettuce sold in America.)

    CSAs, people. You need to get your produce from CSAs!

    Pollan then goes on the Cascadian Farms property with its founder, Gene Kahn. Kahn is now a vice-president at General Mills, which owns Cascadian Farms. Kahn pushed for synthetic ingredients and was on the panel that decided what was allowed in organic foods. The standards went the way of “Big Organic”, and factory farms, cows without pastures, and synthetic chemicals were all allowed.

    The same might be said for the biggest organic meat and dairy producers, who fought to make the new standards safe for the organic factory farm. Horizon Organic’s Mark Retzloff labored mightily to preserve the ability of his company–which is the Microsoft of organic milk, controlling more than half of the market–to operate its large-scale industrial dairy in southern Idaho. Here in the western desert, where precious little grass can grow, the company was milking several thousand cows that, rather than graze on pasture (as most consumers presume their organic cows are doing), spend their days milling around a dry lot–a grassless fenced enclosure. It’s doubtful a dairy could pasture that many cows even if it wanted to–you would need at least an acre of grass per animal and more hours than there are in a day to move that many cows all the way out to their distant acre and then back again to the milking parlor every morning and evening. So instead, as in the typical industrial dairy, these organic cows stood around eating grain and silage when they weren’t being milked three times a day. Their organic feed was shipped in from all over the west, and their waste accumulated in manure ponds. Retzloff argued that keeping cows in confinement meant that his farmhands, who all carried stethoscopes, could keep a closer eye on their health. Of course, cows need this sort of surveillance only when they’re living in such close quarters–and can’t be given antibiotics.

    I’m pretty sure we’ve all drank Horizon Organic’s milk, so I find this super fascinating. If you go to a mainstream store and want organic milk, this is probably the only brand you’ll see. It doesn’t sound like its worth the extra 2 bucks, does it?

    So what about farms?

    When I think about organic farming, I think family farm, I think small scale, I think hedgerows and compost piles and battered pickups–the old agrarian idea (which in fact has never had much purchase in California).  I don’t think migrant labor crews, combines the sizes of houses, mobile lettuce-packing factories marching across fields of romain, twenty-thousand-broiler-chicken houses, or hundreds of acres of corn or broccoli or lettuce reaching clear to the horizon.

    So is there anything wrong with that?  Kahn (the founder of Cascadian Farms) says absolutely not.  He says it is the only way for organic to survive.  But is organic really different?

    In many respects the same factory model is at work in both fields, but for every chemical input used in the farm’s conventional fields, a more benign organic input has been substituted in the organic ones.  So in place of petrochemical fertilizers, Greenway’s organic acres are nourished by compost made by the ton at a horse farm nearby, and by poultry manure.  Instead of toxic pesticides, inspects are controlled by spraying-approved organic agents (most of them derived from plants)… and by introducing beneficial insects like lacewings.  Inputs and outputs: a much greener machine, but a machine nevertheless.

    Hey, its better…

    Perhaps the greatest challenge to farming organically on an industrial scale is controlling weeds without the use of chemical herbicides.  Greenway tackles its weeds with frequent and carefully timed tilling.  Even before the crops are planted, the fields are irrigated to germinate the weed seeds present in the soil; a tractor then tills the field to kill them, the first of several passes it will make over the course of the growing season.  When the crops stand too high to drive a tractor over, farm workers wielding propane torches will spot kill the biggest weeds by hand…  But this approach, which I discovered is typical of large-scale organic operations, represents a compromise at best.  The heavy tillage–heavier than in a conventional field–destroys the tilth of the soil and reduces its biological activity as surely as chemicals would; frequent tilling also releases so much nitrogen into the air that these weed-free organic fields require a lot more nitrogen fertilizer than they otherwise might.  In a less disturbed, healthier soil, nitrogen-fixing bacteria would create much of the fertility that industrial organic growers must add in the form of compost, manures, fish emulsion, or Chilean nitrate–all inputs permitted under federal rules…  Not surprisingly the manufacturers of these inputs lobbied hard to shape the federal organic rules; in the end it proved easier to agree on a simple list of approved and prohibited materials rather than to try to legislate a genuinely more ecological model of farming.

    So again we are messing with the system in order to get quantity over quality.  The same problem keeps resurfacing.  Pollan talks about how smaller-scale farms are able to farm in a sustainable say, but the WalMarts of the world don’t want to buy from them, because they can’t offer a one-stop-shop for all of the WalMarts in the world.  Instead, they could only supply a small amount of many different kinds of crops, and the big names don’t want that.

    So now he moves on to one of the farms owned by Earthbound Farm.  I have seen their story on TV before.  They started out as twenty-somethings who rented some land and made their own lettuce and raspberries.  Local chefs bought their baby greens.  They figured out a way to keep them fresher longer, and soon they were selling to huge stores, like Costco.   Costco didn’t want the “organic” label because people associated organic with being high-cost and low-quality, so they dropped the name organic, even though they still used the standards.  Today, Earthbound still plants trees to offset their fossil fuel consumption, and they use biodiesel on the farm.  They are at least better than Cascadian…
    Pollan goes on to describe what the new, much larger, Earthbound Farm looks like as it operates.

    Earthbound’s own employees (who receive generous benefits by Valley standards, including health insurance and retirement) operate the baby greens harvester, but on the far side of the field I saw a contract crew of Mexicans, mostly women, slowly moving through the rows pulling weeds.  I noticed some of the workers had blue Band-Aids on their fingers.  The Band-Aids are colored so inspectors at the plant can easily pick them out of the greens; each Band-Aid also contains a metal filament so that the metal detector through which every Earthbound leaf passes will pick it up before it wind’s up in the customer’s salad.

    For anyone who isn’t on GCM or didn’t read it, this reminded me of the story of the bullet in the Earthbound salad.  Man, that was nasty.  Read it for laughs and quivers.  OK, moving on…

    He then talks about the machines, washers, and processing (chlorine wash, anyone?) that the lettuce has to endure.  You get the idea  ;)  Read the book for the details.  The point is that it is trucked and processed so much, that the energy used is still hardly better than conventionally grown foods.  Its not so natural.  On to talk about the chicken.  We now try to find “Rosie”, the chicken at Petaluma Poultry that he bought at Whole Foods.  Petaluma is hardly an enviro-friendly company though.

    When its founder, Allen Shainsky, recognized the threat from integrated national chicken processors like Tyson and Purdue, he decided that the only way to stay in business was through niche marketing.  So he started processing, on different days of the week, chickens for the kosher, Asian, natural, and organic markets.  Each required a slightly different protocol: to process a kosher bird you needed a rabbi on hand, foe example; for an Asian bird you left the head and feet on; for the natural market you sold the same bird minus head and feet, but played up the fact that Rocky, as this product was called, received no antibiotics or animal by-products in its feed, and you provide a little exercise yard outside the shed so Rocky could, at his option, range free.  And to call a bird organic, you followed the natural protocol except that you also fed it certified organic feed (corn and soy grown without pesticides and chemical fertilizer) and you processed the bird slightly younger and smaller, so it wouldn’t seem quite so expensive.  Philosophy didn’t really enter into it.

    Crap!  I’ve bought Rocky and Rosie!  I’m such a schmuck.

    Rosie the organic chicken’s life is little different from that of her kosher and Asian cousins, all of whom are conventional Cornish Corss broilers processed according to state-of-the-art practice.  The Cornish Cross represents the pinnacle of industrial chicken breeding.  It is the most efficient converter of corn into breast meat ever designed, though this efficiency comes at a high physiological price: The birds grow so rapidly (reaching oven-roaster proportions in seven weeks) that their poor legs cannot keep pace, and frequently fail.

    That’s just lovely.  I’m feeding my kids a seven week old who can’t even stand on her own weight.  Maybe we should all be vegetarian.  Even if I don’t eat it, I’m putting money in Petaluma’s pocket.

    After a tour of the fully automated processing facility, which can translate a chicken from a clucking, feathered bird to a shrink-wrapped pack of parts inside of ten minutes, the head of marketing drove me out to meet Rosie–preprocessing.  The chicken houses don’t resemble a farm so much as a military barracks: a dozen long, low-slung sheds with giant fans at either end.  I donned what looked like a hooded white hazmat suit–since the birds receive no antibiotics yet live in close confinement, the company is ever worried about infection, which could doom a whole house overnight–and stepped inside.  Twenty thousand birds moved away from me as one…  Twenty thousand is a lot of chickens, and they formed a gently undulating white carpet that stretched nearly the length of a football field.  After they adjusted to our presence, the birds resumed sipping from waterers suspended from the ceiling, nibbled organic food from elevated trays connect by tubes to a silo outside, and did pretty much everything chickens do except step outside the little doors located at either end of the shed.

    Ah, “free range”.  I’m feeling great for supporting this industry.

    Compared to conventional chickens, I was told, these organic birds have it pretty good: They get a few more square inches of living space per bird (though it was hard to see how they could be packed together much more tightly), and because there were no hormones or antibiotics in their feed to accelerate growth, they get to live a few days longer.  Though under the circumstances it’s not clear that a longer life is necessarily a boon.

    Running along the entire length of the shed was a grassy yard maybe fifteen feet wide, not nearly big enough to accommodate all twenty thousand birds inside should the group ever decide to take the air en masse.  Which, truth be told, is the last thing the farmers want to see happen, since the defenseless, crowded, and genetically identical birds are exquisitely vulnerable to infection….  But the federal rules say an organic chicken should have “access to the outdoors” and Supermarket Pastoral imagines it, so Petalum Poultry provides the doors and the yard and everyone keeps their fingers crossed.

    It would appear Petaluma’s farm managers have nothing to worry about.  Since the food and water and flock remain inside the shed, and since the little doors remain shut until the birds are at least five weeks old and well settled in their habits, the chickens apparently see no reason to venture out into what must seem to them an unfamiliar and terrifying world.  Since the birds are slaughtered at seven weeks, free range turns out to be not so much a lifestyle for these chickens as a two-week vacation option.

    Remind me again why it would be worth it to pay $8/lb for organic free-range chicken breasts when they never leave their coop?  That clicking sound is the sound of my brain re-figuring why I feed my kids chickens that aren’t local.

    The chapter wraps up with a discussion of the fact that two companies pretty much control all of the organic produce available.  Its not all negative though.  The fact is that if you are buying organic, you are generally getting a healthier product.  He goes on to state all of the studies that have proven that they really are better

    What I could prove, with the help of a mass spectrometer, is that it contained little or no pesticide residue–the traces of the carcinogens, neurotoxins, and endocrine disruptors now routinely found in conventional produce and meet… I very much like the fact that the milk in the ice cream I served came from cows that did not receive injections of growth hormone to boost their productivity, or that the corn those cows are fed, like the corn that feeds Rosie, contains no residues of atrazine, the herbicide commonly sprayed on American cornfields.  Exposure to vanishingly small amounts (0.1 part per billion) of this herbicide has been shows to turn normal male frogs into hermaphrodites.  Frogs are not boys, of course.  So I can wait for that science to be done, or for our government to ban atrazine (as European governments have done), or I can act now on the presumption that food from which this chemical is absent is better for my son’s health than food that contains it.

    Uh, yeah.  I’ll pass on the stuff that turns boys into hermaphrodites.  I’m not really up for dealing with that right now.

    Organic food also contains more polyphenols and vitamins than conventionally grown foods, even if they are grown right next to each other.  This goes a long way towards explaining why highly processed conventional foods still don’t make you feel as good as organic whole foods can.  It seems that the reason they are healthier and tastier is because they have to grow stronger cells since they don’t have fertilizers and pesticides doing the work for them, so they grow better.  This cell strength translates to better taste and nutrients.

    The earth is better off without the chemicals as well.  Of course, that can easily be negated if we are buying food that comes from a far-off land so that we can enjoy it off-season.  By the time it is flown, trucked, and packed at Whole Foods, it is no better for the environment, and it generally tastes pretty crappy too.  There’s a reason why certain foods grow in certain seasons.

    Again, I am feeling very pleased with my decision to use local farms.  The more I think about it, the more that I am seeing benefits beyond supporting your community.  You are also doing more for your health and the land.  Its good stuff.

    There was a whole ‘nother section about fertilizers that I’d LOVE to write about, but for now we’ll call it quits.

  • The corn-fed American steer

    Wow, I am 5 chapters into The Omnivore’s Dilemma, and it is a great read. I would like to point out that this author is NOT a vegetarian, and even admits that he will probably go back to eating feedlot meat once the memories start to fade. I think that makes this book even more interesting. I did not write this entry to try to convince everyone to become vegetarian, but just to do your part when it comes to supporting grass-fed cattle ranches as opposed to the large factory farms.

    After Mr. Pollan addresses some seriously fascinating stories about corn (who knew?!), he goes on to the next part of the food chain: the feedlot cattle. About 60% of the corn produced in this country goes to feedlots, so this is the next logical step. Although cows are not naturally corn-eaters, feedlot cattle have been forced into this way of life.

    Economically, it is nearly impossible for a family farm to compete with feedlots. A big part of the reason is because feedlots (and everyone, thanks to government subsidies) get corn for less than it costs the farmers to produce. Even if farmers wanted to feed cattle corn, it would cost them more to feed their own corn to cattle than it would to buy corn for them.

    Pollan decides to buy a steer and follow its life through the cycle. He gives its history. Steer 534 (the one he bought) was the product of a $15 mail-order straw of semen and a mother cow named “9534” since she was the 34th cow born in 1995 at her ranch. None of her male offspring are around long enough to be named individually, so they are all called 534.

    Born on March 13, 2001, in the birthing shed across the road, 534 and his mother were turned out on pasture just as soon as the eighty-pound calf stood up and began nursing. Within a few weeks the calf began supplementing his mother’s milk by nibbling on a salad bar of mostly native grasses…

    It sounds pretty good. I’d say that’s a pretty good mental picture.

    Pollan then goes on to discuss the way that cows and pastures have a perfect relationship. The cows eat the grass, but also keep trees and bushes from growing and crowding out the grass. The manure fertilizes it, and as long as there is a proper amount of pasture rotation, life is good. Cows are made just for grass

    …cows …have evolved the special ability to convert grass-which single-stomached creatures like us can’t digest– into high-quality protein. They can do this because they possess what is surely the most highly evolved digestive organ in nature: the rumen. About the size of a medicine ball, the organ is essentially a forty-five gallon fermentation tank in which a resident population of bacteria dines on grass.

    Its perfect and it works for the cow, the grass, and even the bacteria 🙂 The whole chain is solar-powered and transforms sunlight into protein. You really can’t beat that.

    So then why is it that steer number 534 hasn’t tasted a blade of prairie grass since last October? Speed, in a word, or, in the industry’s preferred term, “efficiency.” Cows raised on grass simply take longer to reach slaughter weight than cows raised on a richer diet, and for half a century now the industry has devoted itself to shortening a beef animal’s allotted span on earth. “In my grandfather’s time, cows were four or five years old at slaughter,” Rich explained. “In the fifties, when my father was ranching, it was two or three years old. Now we get there at fourteen to sixteen months.” Fast food, indeed. What gets a steer from 80 to 1,100 pounds in fourteen months are tremendous quantities of corn, protein and fat supplements, and an arsenal of new drugs.

    Fourteen months. That is crazy. That is so young. It is this age difference that has enabled Americans to go from eating beef as a luxury item to eating it as everyday fare.

    In October, two weeks before I made his acquaintance, steer number 534 was weaned from his mother. Weaning is perhaps the most traumatic time on a ranch for animals and ranchers alike; cows separated from their calves will mope and bellow for days, and the calves, stressed by the changes in circumstance and diet, are prone to getting sick.

    I think every nursing mother can cringe at this. Yes, they are “only” animals, but obviously they aren’t bellowing and moaning just out of instinct. They are truly upset. Even their immune systems respond to this stress.

    So next the calves go into a “backgrounding” pen, where they are, for the first time in their lives, confined to a pen, “bunk broken”–taught to eat from a trough–and where they learn to eat a new and unnatural diet: corn.

    Pollan goes on to describe the sight and smell of a feedlot. Let’s just say it smells like poop and operates much like a big city in the dark ages. You can always read the book for more details 😉 I don’t want to give away all of the good stuff, haha. Anyways, so back to the corn…

    We’ve come to think of “corn-fed” as some kind of old-fashioned virtue, which it may well be when you’re referring to Midwestern children, but feeding large quantities of corn to cows for the greater part of their lives is a practice neither particularly old nor virtuous. Its chief advantage is that cows fed corn… get fat quickly; their flesh also marbles well, giving it a taste and texture American consumers have come to like. Yet this corn-fed meat is demonstrably less healthy for us, since it contains more saturated fat and less omega-3 fatty acids than the meat of animals fed grass. A growing body of research suggests that many of the health problems associated with eating beef are really problems with corn-fed beef. (Modern-day hunter-gatherers who subsist on wild meat don’t have our rates of heart disease.) In the same way ruminants are ill adapted to eating corn, humans in turn may be poorly adapted to eating ruminants that eat corn.

    Seriously, if you eat meat, then that should be enough to convince you to buy grass-fed cattle, even if you don’t care about their living conditions or quality of life.

    The economic logic behind corn is unassailable, and on a factory farm there is no other kind. Calories are calories, and corn is the cheapest, most convenient source of calories on the market. Of course, it was the same industrial logic–protein is protein–that made feeding rendered cow parts back to cows seem like a sensible thing to do, until scientists figured out that this practice was spreading bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE), more commonly known as mad cow disease. Rendered bovine meat and bonemeal represented the cheapest, most convenient way of satisfying a cow’s protein requirement (never mind these animals were herbivores by evolution) and so appeared on the daily menus… until the FDA banned the practice in 1997.

    So you might think that now cows aren’t fed cows, but you’d be wrong.

    The FDA ban on feeding ruminant protein to ruminants makes an exception for blood products and fat; my steer will probably dine on beef tallow recycled from the very slaughterhouse he’s heading to in June. (“Fat is fat,” the feedlot manager shrugged, when I raised an eyebrow.) …The rules still permit feedlots to feed nonruminant animal protein to ruminants. Feather meal and chicken litter (that is, bedding, feces, and discarded bits of feed) are accepted cattle feeds, as are chicken, fish, and pig meal. Some public health experts worry that since the bovine meat and bonemeal that cows used to eat is now being feed to chickens, pigs, and fish, infetious prions could fine their way back into cattle when they’re fed the protein of animals that have been eating them.

    Seriously yucky.

    Compared to all the other things we feed cattle these days, corn seems positively wholesome. And yet it too violates the biological …logic of bovine digestion. …Bloat is perhaps the most serious thing that can go wrong with a ruminant on corn. The fermentation in the rumen produces copious amounts of gas, which is normally expelled by belching during rumination. But when the diet contains too much starch and too little roughage, rumination all but stops, and a layer of foamy slime forms in the rumen that can trap the gas. The rumen inflates like a balloon until it presses against the animal’s lungs. Unless action is taken promptly to relieve the pressure (usually by forcing a hose down the animal’s esophagus), the animal suffocates.

    A concentrated diet of corn can also give a cow acidosis. Unlike our own highly acid stomachs, the normal pH of a rumen cow is neutral. Corn renders it acidic, causing a kind of bovine heartburn that in some cases can kill the animal, but usually just makes him sick. Acidotic animals go off their feed, pant, and salivate excessively, paw and scratch their bellies, and eat dirt. The condition can lead to diarrhea, ulcers, bloat, rumenitis, liver disease, and a general weakening of the immune system that leaves the animal vulnerable to the full panoply of feedlot diseases— pneumonia, coccidiosis, enterotoxemia, feedlot polio.

    Mmm, makes me hungry 😛

    Cattle rarely live on feedlot diets for more than 150 days, which might be about as much as their systems can tolerate. “I don’t know how long you could feed them this ration before you’d see problems,” Dr. Metzin said; another vet told me the diet would eventually “blow out their livers” and kill them. Over time the acids eat away at the rumen wall, allowing bacteria to enter the animal’s bloodstream. These microbes wind up in the liver, where they form abscesses and impair the liver’s function. Between 15 percent and 30 percent of feedlot cows are found at slaughter to have abscessed livers; Dr. Mel told me that in some pens the figure runs as high as 70 percent.

    And yet since corn is so cheap, it is used. We demand cheap meat, and by buying cheap meat, we encourage this treatment of animals.

    In order to keep the animals alive, they are given antibiotics, and a lot of them. These antibiotics are now becoming ineffective in humans and animals as the bacteria become more resistant to them. That means we have to take more powerful antibiotics, all because animals must be given them in order to boost their immune systems which are only weakened because we insist on feeding them corn.

    So 534 was not at the feedlot and not looking his best. His eyes were bloodshot from the dust of the feces that lines the pens. 534 slept on manure that is full of bacteria.

    The bacteria… can find their way from the manure on the ground into his hide and from their into our hamburgers… The speed at which these animals will be slaughtered and processed–four hundred an hour at the plant where 534 will go–means that sooner or later some of the manure caked on these hides gets into the meat we eat. One of the bacteria that almost certainly resides in the manure I’m standing in is particularly lethal to humans. E. Coli 0157:H7 is a relatively new strain of the common intestinal bacteria (no one had seen it before 1980) that thrives in feedlot cattle, 40% of which carry it in their gut. Ingesting as few as ten of these microbes can cause a fatal infection; they produce a toxin that destroys human kidneys.

    Most of the microbes that reside in the gut of a cow and find their way into our food get killed off by the strong acids in our stomachs, since they evolved to live in the neutral pH, environment of the rumen. But the rumen of corn-fed feedlot steer is nearly as acidic as our own, and in this new, man-made environment new acid-resistant strains of E. Coli, of which 0157:H7 is one, have evolved… The problem with these bugs is that they can shake off the acid bath in our stomachs–and then go on to kill us. By acidifying the rumen with corn we’ve broken down one of our food chain’s most important barriers to infection. Yet another solution turned into a problem.

    This is so scary. This is why man should not be interfering with God-made systems. We are not here to recreate systems, we are here to take care of the earth. I know I sound like a total hippie, but c’mon, look at the name of my domain.

    …Petroleum is one of the most important ingredients in the production of modern meat, and the Persion Gulf is surely a link in the food chain that passes through this (or any) feedlot. Steer 534 started his life part of a food chain that derived all of its energy from the sun, which nourished the grasses that nourished him and his mother. When 534 moved from ranch to feedlot, from grass to corn, he joined an industrial food chain powered by fossil fuel–and therefore defended by the US military, another never-counted cost of cheap food. (One fifth of America’s petroleum consumption goes to producing and transporting our food.)

    So this is what commodity corn can do to a cow: industrialize the miracle of nature that is a ruminant, taking this sunlight- and prairie grass-powered organism and turning it into the last thing we need: another fossil fuel machine. This one, however, is able to suffer.

    It is estimated that EACH COW uses 1 barrel of oil to be sent to market as beef. This oil is in the form of petroleum to fertilize the corn as well as the oil to transport and convert his food from corn into the flakes that they eat, along with the other manufactured products put in his food. That is scary.

    I know this is a looooooooong post, and I should probably split it up, but there was just SO much to talk about in this chapter. I hope it makes you think twice, I know I am.

  • Corn, corn everywhere

    On the suggestion of a few women at GCM, I decided to pick up a copy of The Omnivore’s Dilemma – A Natural History of Four Meals by Michael Pollan. It is really good. Who knew that a book about crops and factory farming could be such a page turner?

    The first chapter discusses corn and the fact that it is present in the majority of our foods. We eat a ridiculous amount of corn.

    Corn is what feeds the steer that becomes the steak. Corn feeds the chicken and the pig, the turkey and the lamb, the catfish and the tilapia and, increasingly, even the salmon, a carnivore by nature that the fish farmers are reengineering to tolerate corn. The eggs are made of corn. The milk and cheese and yogurt, which once came from dairy cows that grazed on grass, now typically come from Holsteins that spend their working lives indoors tethered to machines, eating corn.

    Head over to the processed foods and you find even more intricate manifestations of corn. A chicken nugget, for example, piles corn upon corn: what chicken contains consists of corn, of course, but so do most of the nugget’s other constituents, including the modified corn starch that glues the thing together, the corn flour in the batter that coats it, and the corn oil in which it gets fried. Much less obviously, the leavenings and lecithin, the mono-, di-, and triglycerides, the attractive golden coloring, even the citric acid that keeps the nugget “fresh” can all be derived from corn.

    To wash down your chicken nuggets with virtually any soft drink in the supermarket is to have some corn with your corn. Since the 1980s virtually all the sodas and most of the fruit drinks sold in the supermarket have been sweetened with high fructose corn syrup (HFCS)–after water, corn sweetener is their principal ingredient. Grab a beer for your beverage instead and you’ll be drinking corn, in the form of alcohol fermented from glucose refined from corn. Read the ingredients on the label of any processed food and, provided you know the chemical names it travels under, corn is what you will find. For modified or unmodified starch, for glucose syrup and maltodextrin, for crystalline fructose and ascorbic acid, for lecithin and dextrose, lactic acid and lysine, for maltrose and HFCS, for MSG and polyols, for the caramel color and xanthan gum, read: corn. Corn is in the coffee whitener and Cheez Whiz, the frozen yogurt and TV dinner, the canned fruit and ketchup and candies, the soups and snacks and cake mixes, the frosting and gravy and frozen waffles, the syrups and hot sauces, the mayonnaise and mustard, the hot dogs and the bologna, the margarine and shortening, the salad dressings and the relishes and even the vitamins… This goes for the nonfood items as well: Everything from the toothpaste and cosmetics to the disposable diapers, trash bags, cleansers, charcoal briquettes, matches, and batteries, right down to the shine on the cover of the magazine that catches your eye by the checkout: corn.

    As a matter of fact, he even goes into the science of how, through DNA testing, Americans have a ridiculous amount of corn in them. We even have more corn in us than the Mexicans, who generally eat 40% of their diet from corn.

    Now that corn has taken over most other crops, the earth gets depleted so nitrogen-replacing fertilizers must be used. The nitrogen from those fertilizers not only ends up in our bodies, but contributes to global warming, the killing of many other species of fish and animals, and a huge loss of variety in our diets. Then again, experts estimate that 2 out of 5 of us would be dead if it weren’t for those fertilizers. That’s not so hot either.
    He goes into great detail about the genetic modifications of corn and what that means for the land, for us, and for our future. Its really good stuff.

    I know I’ve read about this before, but I found this to be a really fascinating first chapter. I’m sure I’ll keep posting about this book as I go.

    Oh, and as an interesting side note, “modifying” the salmon to eat corn is something that my brother has been working on as a genetic engineer. Good stuff, huh? Can you believe we came from the same genetic pool? LOL. He’s great at what he does though!

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